Candle molds - Metal molds
Metal or aluminium candle molds are probably the most expensive to purchase.
But their very material make them (almost) everlasting and, as long as you maintain and clean them correctly and avoid any kind of shocks and blows, they will last you a lifetime.
Metal molds are available in a wide variety of shapes, for instance: cylindrical, oval, square, conical, starshaped, pentagonal, hexagonal and othergonal, triangular...
Some metal molds, principally those made of aluminium and tin, can be described as seamless. This means that these molds do not feature a welding line (a relief in the metal where the mold has been "closed") and you won't get a replica of this line on the finished candle.
However, just because a mold you like very much is not seamless should not be a reason to give up on it: the seamline is relatively easy to get rid of with a Stanley™ knive and an old panty hose to polish out the candle afterwards.
The edges of a metal mold, in particular the edges of the square base, can be as sharp as a razorblade.
If, like me, you're not great at mental calculation, you'll want to save your ten fingers by covering the sharp edges of your metal molds with one or two lengths of thick tape.
How to wick a metal mold?
Usually, you'll find a pre-drilled hole in the center of the mold's base. This hole, sometimes closed with a screw, is the wick hole.
- use a screwdriver to remove the screw (if any);
- thread the wick through the hole in the bottom of the mold, up through the length of the mold and out the top. Leave a length of about 5 centimeters of wick at both extremities;
- on the "open" side of the mold (the top), use a wick holder to keep the wick in place, centered and tight or just tie it around a pencil;
- on the other side, the bottom of the mold, slightly pull on the wick to tighten it, replace the screw back in the wick hole and screw it down tightly. This should keep the wick tight enough during the pouring procedure;
- now cover wick, screw and wick hole with a generous amount of mold sealer. Use enough of it, you don't want paraffin to escape and cover your whole work area as soon as you've poured it;
- your mold is now wicked and you're ready to pour your candle.
Metal molds: precautions and maintenance
when you're finished using your mold, clean thoroughly and put it away, protected from blows and dust, ideally in its original box.
it is practically impossible to unmold a candle from a mold whose edges (or body) are dented. So always be very careful not to drop your metal molds or hit them with, for instance, a pouring pot.
if you leave remains of wax inside a mold, this wax will more than probably end up on the surface of the next candle you'll pour. Even if not more annoying, wax residues might prevent the next candle from leaving the mold. Always clean your metal molds thoroughly with a good mold cleaner.
don't pour paraffin at too high a temperature in the mold, its weldings might not support it.
Metal molds are quite expensive to purchase but will last for years if you take care of them
metal candle molds